Alberta 4: Banff National Park

Tuesday, June 26

Mike and I had a few hiccups with our check-in, where the key cards failed to work several times during our stay, but the hotel was receptive to our feedback and I think we were just unlucky. Either that or Mike is electronically charged to interfere with the magnetised keys. The hotel manager compensated us very generously for this inconvenience and sent us a card on the day of check out - to the point where I get the impression that problems like this are rare. This was my parents' second stay at the Rimrock, and they still only have good things to say about the place even with all things considered.

View on the trail to Lake Agnes Teahouse

We visited the hot springs nearby the hotel in the late afternoon. The view from the springs is beautiful, and the cool evening weather was just right for it. We only spent under an hour here and didn't feel the need to go back - there is just the one pool and it's fairly busy. If you're going to visit, it's probably worthwhile getting the single entry first to see if it's a place you want to return to.

Banff

For dinner, we went to the Grizzly House. This restaurant came strongly recommended by a colleague of Mike's. We had their price fix menu involving a vegetable fondue starter, and a platter of raw game meats to fry up ourselves - korean BBQ style. This included bison, elk, rattlesnake, frog, and kangaroo. We really liked the vegetable fondue, the meats in the platter were hit or miss. One disappointment was the kangaroo meat was a substitute for one of their usual offerings (I think either moose or bear). Coming from Australia where kangaroo meat is becoming commonplace, it's presence at this restaurant didn't impress us and we'd have preferred a Canadian game. The rattlesnake was weird... if you're adventurous enough to try it I know I can't stop you, but I wouldn't recommend it at all.


Wednesday, June 27

Botanical Gardens in Banff

My dad had just read the book Wheat Belly, and made a recent resolution to remove wheat from his diet. This was all well and good for our meaty dinners, but after such a heavy meal last night we really felt like something light and had to make it wheat free. This is how we stumbled across an amazing cafe. I loved everything about this place - it happens to offer gluten free, free trade, organic, vegan etc products but was not at all pretentious about it. With wheat free options it was just what we needed to meet Dad's new food requirement. This place was so good that we went back every morning for the exact same dish (the granola bowl with berry compote and yoghurt), then bought some granola to take home with us. My mouth is watering just thinking of that dish... It's goes without saying I think you should try out the Wild Flour Bakery. We also found it easy to park near the bakery on each morning we visited.

We took a walk around town during the morning. Banff is just beautiful and there's so much to see there. We spent some time shopping at the Banff Farmer's Market, and in the Town Centre shopping mall. We visited the botanical gardens at the south end of Banff Ave, near Cave St.

In the afternoon we drove to Canmore, and my parents stayed in town while Mike and I went horse riding on a short trail ride. This place provides rides through its ranch which is just outside of Banff. We did one of the more advanced rides, which involved some steep and muddy paths. I enjoyed the ride with these guys, but it didn't provide the Banff-themed scenery I was expecting, the atmosphere was much more cowboy-ranch inspired.

Brewster Kananaskis Ranch

Thursday, June 28

Lake Louise and the Fairmont Chateau

Mirror Lake

Today we visited the famous Lake Louise. This lake is special for a few reasons, like the glacier in the distance, the crystal blue water, and the beautiful architecture of the Fairmont Chateau. My parents stayed to walk around the lake while Mike and I hiked uphill to the Lake Agnes teahouse. I won't lie, I found the mostly uphill hike a bit tiresome. Of course, it's nothing compared to the Inca Trail, but I still stopped a few times for a breather and some snacks on the way. The hike all in all took us about 2 hours round trip. You'll walk up the mountain on one side of Lake Louise, and at the top of the mountain you'll pass a waterfall just before reaching the tea house. On the way up you'll pass Mirror Lake and the Beehive, a scene that we unanimously felt superseded Lake Agnes. Even if you don't intend to walk the entire way to the tea house, it's worth coming up this far.

View from Lake Agnes

Lake Agnes lies at a higher altitude than Lake Louise, and the water here is completely still and clear, providing a mirror image of the mountains towering above it. A stream from the lake runs towards a waterfall, and you can cross a bridge to see the top of the waterfall and the valley below. The tea house was selling snacks like sandwiches for about $10, so best to bring some snacks with. It's understandable since staff carry the food up the mountain and the garbage down the mountain each day.

Lake Agnes

While we were munching on protein bars on our way back down the mountain, my parents were taking in tea and pastries at the Fairmont. When we returned and joined them, the staff at the Fairmont seemed to have difficulty seating us outside even though several seats were available. It was a bit unclear who we should even ask to be seated, and I certainly expect better service from such an icon of the hospitality industry.

Lake Louise

Moving on, we drove that little bit further to my Dad's favourite, Lake Moraine. I've got to agree with him on this one, Lake Moraine can only be more beautiful than Lake Louise. From the parking lot, you can take a trail around the lakeside to a viewpoint on the lake, or you can take a trail up a rocky knoll to a viewpoint that you might recognise from some CA$20 bills.

Lake Moraine

Johnston Canyon Waterfall

Johnston Canyon Waterfall was the next attraction to see today. It's a short trail again, definitely under an hour to see the waterfall, with much of the trail being boardwalk, and part of it through forest.

We stopped by the Bison for dinner, but they were full booked so we made a reservation for tomorrow. Instead we went to Earl's, which has a varied menu from it's Toronto location.








Friday, June 29

Following another breakfast at the Wild Flour, we visited the Fairmont Banff Springs Hotel. We explored the lobby and outdoor grounds of the hotel.

View of the Fairmont Banff Springs Hotel

Fairmont Banff

After this, Mike and I did the hike up Tunnel Mountain. This walk takes about an hour from the upper trail head where we parked the car. Some people were walking even further to the trail all the way from Banff (which add's a lot more uphill to the mix). It's a popular hike to yet another beautiful lookout.

Tunnel Mountain Trail

Finally, we had our much anticipated dinner at the Bison. Move over Grizzly House, because the Bison was some premium fare! We were all excited by the entrees as they arrived, and this was definitely our best meal for the whole trip.

We stayed one last night in Banff, and drove to Calgary airport in the morning to catch our flight home.

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